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Greek winemakers' best chance to grab US market
Mantineia, -- Greece This should be the time to be a Greek winemaker. The country is amid a quality revival of world-class wine regions from the islands to Greece's northern border. But no matter the centuries since Sophocles ruled the stage, the Greeks still remain disposed to a good old ancient bout of reversed fortunes.
The trouble this time? The economy. Wine sales within the country are down more than 40 percent over the past 12 months, threatening a newly revived industry that, until recently, sold 90 percent of its production at home.
Yet this pinch might provide a push for Greece to make a lasting impression elsewhere in the world. Potential tragedy may well be averted.
"Before (Greek winemakers) wanted to see wines exported, but there wasn't enough of a reason to put that much effort in," says Markus Stolz, an export agent in Greece who is working with several U.S. importers, including Oakland's WineWise.
Now there's certainly a reason. Greek producers looking to pivot on the economic decline have adopted a new focus on exports. At the same time, high-profile American importers have taken a new interest in Greek wines. According to the Greek Ministry of Foreign Affairs, in 2010 the value of Greek wine exports to the United States went up more than 12 percent over 2009. While that may not be enough to balance the 40 percent drop at home just yet, it suggests that Greece's unfortunate circumstances may offer the best chance it's ever had of capturing the U.S. market.
Didn't know the market"For many years Greeks were not truly exporting, it was just Greeks transporting the wines to the Greek communities abroad," says Yiannis Paraskevopoulos, winemaker for Gaia Wines and a mentor to many of Greece's up-and-coming winemakers. "They didn't expose the wines to the Americans; they were very self-restricting in a way, and they did not know what the market was after."
And the wines weren't being treated like serious fare, insists Ted Diamantis, owner of Diamond Wine Importers, one of the country's top Greek portfolios. Importers, he says, "didn't care about what they were selling or how it was stored. They were just dumping it off to their buddies at the Greek restaurants."
That's changed. Diamantis' Greek wines are now distributed by Michael Skurnik Wines, one of the most respected U.S. importer/distributors. This is a huge psychological leap for Greek wines in the United States, and it demonstrates well the trend of larger, nonethnic distributors and importers seeing a gap in their portfolios they hadn't noticed before.
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In the case of the Sigalas classic Santorini, made from 100 percent Assyrtiko, you can literally taste the saltiness of the Aegean sea in the wine. That's one of the reasons that the 2009 Sigalas Santorini (available in the Houston market for less than
First up was the Assyrtiko Santorini Greek wine, which produced mixed feelings. "I didn't like it. It tastes like a more expensive Boone's Farm," Nina's husband, Charlie, said. But Nina said she liked it and would pair a lot of dishes with the dry
Bold, with personality and complexity, Santorini wine has become one of the most sophisticated wines in the world. Athiri and Aidani are the other two native grape varietals of the island. Often blended with Assyrtiko, they give dry and pleasing white
Whites are the star of the show in Greece with Assyrtiko from the Island of Santorini being its headliner. It's peachy and salty and you can taste the volcano smoke from the soil which make it a dazzling pairing with charred octopus.
Shrimp Santorini proved another hit; five jumbo shrimp were cooked in white wine and tomato sauce. Feta cheese tops the dish before it's baked. I plan to head back with my family to try the Sparta Burger, a half-pound beef burger topped with feta,
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